Treading lightly or leaving marks?

How a Modern Slavery Law could help New Zealand’s footwear industry step up

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Treading lightly or leaving marks?

How a Modern Slavery Law could help New Zealand’s footwear industry step up

 

Behind every pair of shoes...

...are workers and communities impacted by how brands do business.

In Australia, companies must report on modern slavery risks in their supply chains. We asked, has it made a difference? When we look at New Zealand’s most popular shoe brands, the results are clear.

Almost every brand covered by Australia’s law has acted, improved transparency, and made progress, but our own brands continue to lag behind.

The bottom line? New Zealand need its own modern slavery law, and now we have the chance to get it right.

Aotearoa's Shoe Brand Popular Rankings (2024)

1. The Warehouse

6. New Balance

2. Nike

7. Number One Shoes

3. Kmart

8. Temu

4. Adidas

9. Crocs

5. Skechers

10. Puma

How they compare on Baptist World Aid's Ethical Fashion Report


Brand

Ethical Fashion Report 2024
(score out of 100)

Improvement since 2022


Reported under
Aus Modern Slavery Act



Puma

61



Kmart

58



Adidas

55



New Balance

57



Nike

51



Crocs

23 N/A Partial



Skechers

22 N/A



The Warehouse

20* N/A



Number One Shoes

0** 0



Temu

0** N/A

 *The Warehouse wasn’t included in the Ethical Fashion Report in 2024, due to reduced research team capacity. Their 2022 score has been included here as the last time they were assessed.
**Number One Shoes and Temu both opted not to participate in the 2024 Ethical Fashion Report. Their scores have been calculated based on publicly available information


Without a strong, enforceable law in New Zealand, major brands have little incentive to tackle exploitation. Australia shows us that even a minor change in the law drives companies to improve their policies and transparency.

If New Zealand goes a step further and mandates human rights due diligence from the start, we can ensure more than just reporting. We can drive real action that makes a meaningful difference for people trapped in slavery.

Only our government can make this change.

Years of advocacy, much of it driven by you, have brought us to this point. Right now, two MPs have separate Modern Slavery Bills in the ballot. Now it's time for our politicians to work together and move one strong modern slavery law forward.

We call on the government to make this their legacy.

We asked Kiwis what stops them from shopping ethically.

68% said the hardest part is knowing which brands are truly ethical.

We all lead busy lives. It shouldn’t be up to us to spend hours researching which products were made with exploitation. And most Kiwis agree - 95% said consumers shouldn’t carry the full responsibility for addressing exploitation in supply chains.

Still, there are steps you can take today to ensure your shoes walk the talk for people and the planet.

6 questions to ask before your next pair of shoes

No shoe is perfectly ethical, but these 6 simple questions help you shop smarter and reduce harm.

Finding an ethically made pair of shoes is way harder than it should be! If the footwear industry was fair and sustainable, the weight of making the “right choice” wouldn’t be on us consumers – it would simply be the retail standard. But it isn’t. The footwear market rewards the fastest, cheapest and most disposable products. Until governments, brands, and investors step up, we’re left to navigate the minefield of buying better.

But the right decision isn’t always clear. There are trade-offs and grey areas leading to purchasing uncertainty. This is why 68% of Kiwis said their biggest barrier to shopping ethically is not knowing how to make the best choice.

Your needs matter too. Maybe you need tough work boots, new running shoes for your first half marathon, or perhaps you just love shoes. That’s okay! What’s important is pausing long enough to choose consciously in a system built for unconscious buying.

These six questions are our go-to way of slowing down, so we can make footwear decisions we feel confident about.

https://www.tearfund.org.nz/portals/0/Ethical-fashion-footprint-image-13.webp

Question One: Why am I buying this?

Is it a genuine need, or a momentary rush? Retail therapy is real but fleeting. It can be a distraction from difficult emotions, an attempt to regain control, or the pursuit of a quick dopamine hit. Before you hit “Buy now”, pause. Give yourself time (even a few days) to decide if you really want to make this purchase.

Question Two: Do I already own something similar?

The average British woman owns 24 pairs of shoes. While we might not all hit that number, chances are you already own a pair that can do the job.

Selecting from your current collection is not just about saving space, time or money. It also cuts demand in an industry that’s a major contributor to global pollution. Every pair you decide not to buy eases the environmental burden of overproduction. And you’re not alone in making the most of less. In 2024, 22% of New Zealanders told us they didn’t buy a single pair of shoes (new or second-hand).

Question Three: Can I find it second-hand?

Op shops, Trade Me, and Facebook Marketplace are full of great quality barely worn (or even never-worn) shoes, often at a fraction of the price. Buying second-hand extends a shoe’s life, keeps it out of the bin, and cuts demand for virgin materials. Think of it as rescuing a pair from landfill.

Join the 8% of New Zealanders polled who purchased second-hand shoes last year.

Question Four: What values are most important to me?

When it comes to shoes, there is rarely a perfect “ethical” choice. For some, the highest priority is worker rights and living wages. Others might focus on animal rights, cutting carbon emissions, or protecting oceans and rivers. Some choose durability and quality so they can wear fewer pairs for longer.

Every ethical choice involves trade-offs, so it depends on which values are most important to you.

Question Five: Can I support a brand that's doing better?

Some shoe companies make more ethical choices than others. They might be more transparent in their supply chain, pay a living wage, or design shoes to be worn for years.

Sustainable footwear might cost more upfront, which isn’t realistic for everyone. But when it is, choosing higher-quality, more responsible brands can mean buying less in the long run - and supporting progress where it matters. Check out this blog on how to find brands doing better.

Question Six: Will I wear this often?

The most sustainable shoes are the ones you love to wear. Ask yourself: will I wear these at least 30 times? Will I clean, polish, or repair them? A little maintenance like replacing insoles or resoling boots, extends their life dramatically and cuts waste. Check out our Boot Camp blog for some quick tips to care for your shoes.

These six questions aren’t about guilt; they’re about agency. They help us pause, make thoughtful choices, and avoid being trapped by a flawed system. Sometimes your answer will be “buy it,” sometimes “wait a few days,” or maybe “I can repair what I already have.”

When enough of us choose differently, brands and governments start to notice. We may never make perfect choices, but the more we pause and ask these questions the more pressure we put on the industry to change.

Do what you can and ask the questions!

Then take your own steps in more ethical footwear, towards a fairer world.

A 2-min guide to assessing a shoe brand’s ethics

A quick guide to cut through greenwashing and choose shoe brands that treat people and planet fairly.

Shopping in a way that’s fair for people and the planet can feel overwhelming. Deciphering between greenwashing and genuine action on a company’s website is no small feat, but it often falls to us, the consumers, to do so if we want to buy fair..

New research has found that 68% of New Zealanders see uncertainty as their biggest barrier to shopping ethically, even more than affordability. Almost half (49%) don’t know which brands to support, while 43% worry about greenwashing and 31% don’t know where to find reliable information.

Here's a quick guide to help you cut through the noise.

https://www.tearfund.org.nz/portals/0/Ethical-fashion-footprint-image-13.webp

#1: Start with Third-Party Directories

Before doing your own research, see if someone’s already done it. These directories give quick snapshots of a brands’ transparency, labour rights and sustainability, or curate lists of companies that meet a high threshold for inclusion.

Here’s a couple of third-party directories we often use:

Baptist World Aid’s Ethical Fashion Guide
What is this? Bi-annual rankings (out of 100) on labour rights and environmental impact.
Best for? High-street and large NZ/Aus fashion brands.

Good On You’s Directory
What is this? Global ratings from “We Avoid” to “Great” on companies’ impacts people, planet, and animals.
Best for? Quick, digestible ratings on global fashion brands.

Fashion Revolution’s Fashion Transparency Index
What is this? Scores major brands (out of 100%) on supply chain transparency.
Best for? Checking if a brand publicly discloses meaningful information.

Fair and Good’s Directory
What is this? NZ-based directory of small-scale brands with verified fair trade, ethical, and sustainable credentials.
Best for? Verified alternatives to mainstream brands, especially NZ-based small businesses.

Ethically Kate’s Directory
What is this? Curated list of mostly NZ businesses recommended by sustainability advocate Kate Hall.
Best for? Small, values-driven, NZ brands.

#2: Read what the brand says and look for evidence

Most companies have a “Sustainability,” “Ethics” or “Corporate Responsibility” page. If a sizable company says nothing about its production, that’s a red flag. If companies are taking action, they’ll be the first to let you know.

Unfortunately, not every claim can be taken at face value. Buzzwords like ‘eco,’ ‘sustainability’’ and ‘conscious’ are vague. Look for:

Third-party certifications: Fairtrade Certified, Leather Working Group, Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), B Corp, etc. While imperfect, third-party certifications signal external accountability.

Numbers and data: % of factories paying living wages, carbon emissions, recycled content, number of workers in each factory, supplier lists.

Detailed explanations of materials, factories, or manufacturing process with a focus on working conditions.

Case studies or real-world examples of impact.

#3: Progress over perfection

You don’t have to do in-depth research before every purchase. Start by looking at your favourite brand or one big purchase you’ve saved up for. Then assess this brand in light of one directory. Over time, you’ll get faster at spotting green and red flags and will start to curate your own list of trusted brands.

#4: Join Tearfund in advocating for systemic change

We’re passionate about equipping Kiwis to make ethical purchasing decisions, but the burden shouldn’t fall on individuals.

We believe large footwear companies should be required to address human rights risks in their supply chains. That’s why we’re advocating for strong modern slavery legislation in Aotearoa.

The law that could change NZ’s shoe industry

3 ways that a modern slavery legislation could make a difference

Despite our Kiwi pride in going barefoot, nearly 80% of us bought a new pair of shoes last year, likely without a second thought. Behind those boots, sandals, sneakers and slippers is a hidden story.

The Story We Can't See

New Zealand imports millions of pairs of shoes each year. About 92% come from countries where the footwear industry has well-documented links to low wages, unsafe factories, child labour, and modern slavery.

That’s nine out of ten shoes in Aotearoa.

Think kids in toxic tannery vats, people forced onto cotton farms, and women in factories working long hours earning barely enough to eat.

Some brands are trying to do better. But voluntary action will only go so far.

Unlike Australia, the UK and other countries, New Zealand has no law that requires large companies to report on human rights risks their supply chains.

Our government has the power to change this.

Right now, modern slavery reporting bills from both National and Labour MPs are sitting in the members’ bill ballot. If just 61 MPs give their endorsement, one could be fast-tracked into law.

If either bill passes, here’s what could change.

1. We could have greater transparency

Right now, shoe labels say “Designed in New Zealand” or “Made in Indonesia” but nothing about who made them or under what conditions. Companies may or may not know what sort of conditions their products are made under, but what’s important is that under NZ law they don’t have to know, and they don’t have to tell us.

Nearly half of New Zealanders say “not knowing which brands to support” stops them from shopping more ethically. One in three say they don’t know where to find reliable information.

With a public modern slavery statement registry, you could walk into a shop and quickly look up the company’s supply chain risks and how they’re responding. Seven of the 10 most popular footwear companies in Aotearoa already publish some form of modern slavery statement, but only because they sell in overseas countries where it’s legally required.

Regulation works, and Kiwis want it – 95% said the burden of shopping ethically shouldn’t fall on shoppers alone, with 63% saying the government should be involved in holding companies accountable.

2. Companies could finally understand their supply chains

Many businesses don’t know what happens deep in their supply chains. Layers of factories, farms, and subcontractors make them complex. However; the main reason is because brands are not required to look. And deep in those layers is where the worst abuses hide.

A modern slavery law would require companies to publicly report on the exploitation and slavery risks in their supply chains and how they will address them. To do this, businesses would need to assess their supply chains and identify high-risk countries, suppliers, or production methods linked to forced or child labour. Vague statements like “we didn’t know” would no longer be acceptable.

Six of the 10 most popular footwear brands already run labour-rights checks across their supply chains, thanks to Australia’s law, not ours.

3. It could level the playing field for companies who are already trying

Right now, companies investing in better practices bear higher costs while competing against brands that cut corners, ignore risks, and price their products lower because someone else is quietly bearing the burden instead. Investing in ethical supply chainsis the right thing. But it comes at a price.

Legislation would set a single standard for all large companies. Those already taking responsibility would be rewarded, and newcomers would have a clear roadmap to improve.

Tearfund supports both bills but is calling for one crucial step further: mandatory human rights due diligence.

If the bill goes a step further and includes due-diligence requirements, this could bring about real change for people trapped in slavery

Transparency is critical, but it isn’t enough. Current laws rely on the will of consumers. A due-diligence requirement would shift responsibility back to companies.

That means not only identifying risks but actively addressing them:

  • Sending independent inspectors to farms, factories and tanneries.

  • Setting up safe grievance systems so workers can report abuse without retaliation

  • Providing remedies when abuses are found, from backpay to relocation to legal support.

Right now, not a single one of the most popular footwear brands monitor more than 25% of their raw-material facilities. Only three have effective grievance systems at that stage, as well as any process to respond to violations. That’s not good enough.

Because these are huge companies, even small changes can transform thousands of workers’ lives.

The Missing Piece OR Our chance to change the system

New Zealand prides itself on fairness. Modern slavery legislation would align our laws with our values, protect workers around the world and give shoppers the transparency they’re asking for.

This is our chance to change the system so the shoes on our feet don’t costsomeone else’s freedom.

New Zealand can be a place where “ethical” is the norm, not the niche.

A place where you can buy any pair of shoes and know the manufacturer didn’t harm a person or poison a river. You don’t have to read the small print because the industry is accountable to protect people and the planet.

Where workers earn enough to feed their families, see a doctor, and send their children to school. People work in bright, airy factories and tanneries, safe from toxic fumes, with protective equipment as a right, not a privilege. Their work is freely chosen, never forced.

With exploitation-free shoes as the default, no one has to scrutinise sustainability reports. This can be a place where the burden of making an ethical footwear choice shifts from the individual to the production system, where it belongs.

 

Strong Legislation

We need our government to set clear, enforceable expectations so businesses must address human rights risks in their supply chains.

Corporate Action

Footwear brands must take ownership of their impact, not just in policy, but in practice.

 

Consumer Power

As individuals, we shouldn’t carry the weight of fixing a broken system, but together we can push for the accountability it lacks.

Modern Slavery Work

We believe in a world where everyone can work safely, is treated with dignity and compensated fairly.

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